If you didn't love the military before, you will now! Military inspired silhouettes and colors are key for fall. There are things to love and not love about this look. The Burberry Prorsum collection (photo far left) is full of this military look and is so chic. I love this look because of the color palette - different shades of green layered - which makes a new surprising neutral. Anyone can wear this and it is more interesting than, say, brown. The structured look of the jackets is flattering and sophisticated and can be paired with anything from denim to a cocktail dress. Speaking of dresses, the middle look is Oscar de la Renta, and I love his interpretation of this trend. When people think "military" they think trousers and sharp jackets but this dress is a beautiful feminine way to wear this trend. It is still structured but not uptight. The rolled sleeve is a key detail as is the accented waist. Now, before I say this, let it be known that Rag and Bone is one of my all time favorite labels. However, this last look, for me, is a bit overdone and inaccessible. No one ever wears things exactly as they are shown on the runway - well some celebs do - but even if you take this look apart, it is still a tough one. I get the idea, and if my gig wasn't to try and make fashion accessible to real women, then this wouldn't bug me as much as it does. The fact is, this type of look is totally unwearable. If you wore the pullover all by itself you would still look like you were trying really hard to look "army". Anything forced is bad. The skirt with the knee socks and booties is also too much. Only a runway model and Angelina Jolie have the right legs to pull that off. I do like the shoes...! My point is that sometimes these trends can be interpreted by the public the wrong way, and the reason for that, often times, is the way the designers present them on the runway. The way to work this trend is to focus on color (green) and structure (in a jacket or pant for example).
I LOVE this look and am so glad it is part of the fashion vernacular again. There is something so sexy and chic about a women in men's clothing...we actually wear their clothes better than they do most of the time! At first, these looks can seem boring and redundant. Look closer: it is about material and silhouette and how this look flatters all body types. Of course, there are different cuts for trousers and blazers, but in general, any woman can rock a suit. The great thing about this fall is the trouser - it's back. For the past few seasons, pants have been jodpurs, harem, and slouchy (they still are to a certain extent) but now trousers are long and lean and lovely. Straight leg paired with a boxy or somewhat slouchy blazer is so chic and modern. The first look is Bottega Veneta (notice the double breasted button and the wide lapel). The last look is Calvin Klein which is a slightly different interpretation - a bit more structure to the fit and fabric and beautiful detail on the blazer (it is these details that make this look anything but boring). My favorite is the middle look is also Bottega Veneta but is is LEATHER! I die for leather (don't tell PETA) and it too is all over the place this season. Now, I know most people wouldn't be daring enough for this kind of thing, and I admit, an entire suit of leather is intense. But I love the way the leather hangs and how it shines and how it feels. This is the ultimate modern take on the suit but risky!
Knits. Always a staple for fall. And a welcome one at that. I think the reason people get so excited about the fall season (in the fashion world and beyond) is that it signifies a new start. Things start to happen again in the fall - good bye vacations and summer heat, hello productivity and a crisp, clean feeling in the air. When I lived in NYC, I loved wearing these heavy knits - there is nothing cozier or more comforting that throwing on one of these heavy sweaters. But in Texas, this trend is not so easy to wear (tear). I have learned that you can replace a coat for a heavy knit in warmer climates and achieve this look. The great thing about this trend is how easy it is. It's a sweater layered with anything really, some trousers, jeans, a dress, whatever and you're off. The first look is Alexander Wang and I love the slouchy, nonchalant look of this. Knits should be a no fuss staple and this achieves that perfectly. The second look is Chanel. Oh Karl...you've done it again! Again, no real person is going to wear this look (unless you live in an igloo) but you get the idea! The idea here is you are going to the slopes (notice the real ice blocks on the runway). There is something charming about the boots and shorts, no?? And lastly, there is a look from Proenza Schouler. This is another really accessible look. I love the oxford shirt buttoned up all the way under the v neck knit. The cropped length is great as well because you can layer underneath and get that sort of casual undone look with denim or a pant. Bottom line, get a chunky knit sweater for the fall and wear the hell out of it!
The one good thing about the tank in the economy has been a shift, in design terms, to a utilitarian, minimalist perspective. I personally have always believed that less is more. Muted colors and sleek and simple silhouettes are always sophisticated and accessible to everyone. Once again, there is nothing boring about this look contrary to popular thought. When something is this pared down, the look boils down to details, or the absence of detail which is, in itself, detail. The first look is Stella McCartney. What I love about this is how she layered pieces in virtually the same color and paired it with a shoe in the same color. It's a totally blank canvas - no statement is being made and it feels completely natural. The second look is Celine - another label I die for. Everything Phoebe Philo does is perfect. Who else can take a basic silhouette and the most basic color palette and turn it into this?? The details are perfection: notice the high neck and the ties that fall almost to the floor. The fabric of the taupe part of the dress is different from what appears to be a silk/crepe top - so it's all about texture. I think the key to pulling off this look is to keep the colors all in a similar color family (neutrals or bolds work best) and to keep the silhouettes clean and straight.
Velvet is a fabric I loved as a kid because of the way it feels - soft, warm, and actually sexy. I have to say, I love that velvet is actually being worn again. It reminds me of all things regal and royal - it is a posh fabric and one that isn't used nearly enough. The only tricky thing is to avoid looking like a drape in this heavy fabric. I have to admit, I wouldn't wear or suggest anyone else wear the two looks above. Again, you have to be a specific type of woman to pull off a velvet dress with these silhouettes. However, velvet jackets, blouses, and trousers I am all for. I think the problem with the dress for me is that it tends to look drape-ish...too much fabric and it can hang awkwardly. Both Alexander Wang (left) and Zac Posen (right) are fantastic and have given velvet a modern edge here. But if I was going to purchase velvet, I would focus on pieces I could break up with other fabrics.
When I think plaid, I think two things: Scotland and the school uniform I wore for 14 years. I guess I also think of Kurt Cobain which sort of redeems plaid for me, but not entirely. The great thing about this trend is how designers like Jil Sander (left) and Phillip Lim (right) have reimagined it. Looks like this don't scream school uniform or bagpipes, or angst ridden 90's musician. It is chic and won't make you look like you're being ironic. I think the key here is to go for plaids that mix off beat or multiple colors. I love the Phillip Lim look for this reason - you get the texture and visual detail of plaid without the uniform feel.
all photos from style.com
